Saturday, November 10, 2018

Another branch of the Seghieri family in France is now connected to our extensive Montecarlo tree

Alan della Roma, born to Emilie Seghieri in France.
Another Seghieri has been found. Or rather he has found us. Alan della Roma (who goes by the name Dishual Landell on Facebook) sent me a message in September, stating that his mother was Emilie Seghieri, born in France to Saturnin (Saturnino) Seghieri, whom Alan believed was born in Montecarlo around 1893. Alan lives in the Brittany region of France and speaks English and French but no Italian, and he wanted assistance in finding his Montecarlo roots.

Alan had become Facebook friends with Marco Seghieri of Ponte Buggianese, who himself had only recently discovered his connection to his other Montecarlo relatives. Marco referred Alan to me, and I looked at my charts when I was in Montecarlo recently. At first, I found no connection.

I don’t have access to all the Montecarlo church files in the same way I do to those of many other churches in the Valdinievole. Most churches have put their records of baptisms, marriages and death on file at the parish archives in Pescia, which are open to the public twice a week—but the Montecarlo church of Sant’Andrea has chosen to keep its books in its own offices. Will I be allowed to access them? This is a question I put to the church secretary this week, and she will talk to the priest and get back to me. If the answer is yes, I may be spending quite a bit of time in the church when I return to Montecarlo next February.

Back: Sergio and Manuela.
Meanwhile, thanks to our friend Elena Benvenuti, Lucy and I had dinner this week at the home of Sergio Nelli and his wife Manuela, with Elena serving as interpreter. Sergio is an author, historian, official at the state archives in Lucca and an authority on the historical and genealogical origins of Montecarlo. He’s also our next door neighbor. It was Dr. Nelli who had in 2012 provided me with my line of descent from my great great grandfather Seghiero Andrea Seghieri (1818-1892) all the way back to Giunta Seghieri, born around 1255 in Vivinaia (an area now called Montecarlo).

The brother of Gaetano Seghieri,
one of Dishual's ancestors.
Doctor Nelli has already recorded the names of every Seghieri recorded in the church archives into his personal databases, which include both handwritten journals and computer files, so it took us only half an hour to trace Alan’s line back to Giunta, our earliest known ancestor. As for the connection between Alan’s family and my own—and the other Seghieri families of Montecarlo’s Marcucci neighborhood—our closest common ancestor is Mariano Seghieri (1415-1469). Alan’s late mother Emilie would be my 12th cousin, so Alan is my 12th cousin once removed.

Seghieri crest in Montecarlo.
He comes from a Seghieri line that was quite distinguished, with some of his ancestors labeled doctor, captain, lieutenant and alfiere (a type of civil guard). Many of the brothers of his ancestors were also priests and abbots, and one was the bishop of Sovana. This distinguished Bishop Seghieri is now buried in the crypt of the Montecarlo church (read Random and intriguing . . . Seghieri discoveries). Members of this family line owned the large house and garden next to Montecarlo’s Porta Fiorentina, the one which still has the Seghieri crest over the door.

“I’m very glad to discover all this about my ancestors, and particularly at this time of remembering dead relatives,” Alan wrote. “I’m 75 years old and I would like to go to Montecarlo before my death, not only for the country but to meet longtime forgotten relatives. Many thanks for your help.”

Monday, November 5, 2018

We will miss cousin Dante Seghieri, a colorful, memorable local character

We were heading out to pick up a friend at the Pescia train station when we drove past the Poggio restaurant and saw the usual posters announcing the death of a local resident. Only this time it wasn’t really usual, because one of the posters was for someone we knew, Dante Seghieri, age 91. We picked up our friend and went straight to the church in San Salvatore, because the funeral would start just a few minutes later.

Dante was one of the first Seghieris we had met on via Mattonaia, when he was 84. At our first encounter, he gave us a long dissertation on some of the misfortunes in his life. He had buried two daughters and his wife, and one of his daughter’s deaths had been particularly traumatic. She had been killed in an auto accident at around age 20 just before she was to be married.
We saw this announcement just in time to make it to the mass
for Dante on Sunday.

After that, every time we saw Dante, he began talking about the same things, with his younger daughter’s death always at the center of his grieving. It obviously had affected him severely, since it is unusual for someone to bring up the same sad topic with virtual strangers every time he sees them. As we got to know him a bit better over the years, we finally did have some conversations with him about other topics, but each encounter had its share of difficulties, because he didn’t speak clearly, and we didn’t understand Italian thoroughly. Still, it was always a comforting sight each year upon our return to San Salvatore to see Dante walking down the road.

He lived alone in his family home at Casone Marcucci, and we thought at first that he had no close family around him. But Ivo Seghieri told us that Dante had a son who lived nearby, and we gradually came to realize that some of the women who worked on the big meals at the Casolare dei Fiori were part of Dante’s family. Gisella, who had always impressed us with her cheerful personality, turned out to be his daughter-in-law, and two of her daughters—Dante’s grandchildren—also worked occasionally at the Casolare. They had been serving us meals for several years before I realized that they were my distant cousins.

In our five years of living part-time at the Casolare, I eventually put together a chart showing how all the Seghieri families in the Marcucci neighborhood are related to each other and me. Dante was my dad’s 7th cousin. I’m grateful that we returned to live in Italy for a few months a year and had the chance to meet Dante.  Attending his funeral also reminds me that we continue to advance, however slowly, in our involvement in the Montecarlo community.

Thursday, November 1, 2018

Massi the driver—and photographer—a great choice to experience the rural beauty and character of Tuscany

Massi the Driver. All photos on this page are by Massi
Massimiliano Mori of Southern Tuscany is known to many as Massi the Driver because he is licensed to drive tourists to and from their destinations or take them on food and wine tours. While he not be an official tour guide per se, many of his customers consider him the best guide they’ve ever had, simply because he is so knowledgeable about the best places to take stunning scenic photos, eat lunch or dinner, or sample wine, oil and antipasto.
A misty morning in the Southern Tuscany

I’ve never actually met Massi, but I’ve seen some of his photos in a Facebook group of which we share membership, and since then we have become friends on Facebook. He has previously granted me permission to use some of his images in my blog posts, but he has so many stunning photos that I decided to dedicate an entire entry to him—simply because his photography deserves a wider audience. Look at the photos and see for yourself!
Sunset in the Crete Sinesi.

As far as his driving services, Massi is described as gracious, accommodating, attentive and knowledgeable. He lives in Asciano, the center of Crete Senesi, about 15 minutes from Siena. Crete Senesi literally means the clay of Siena, and a tourism site describes it thusly: “It is a singular region. Like an island: exuberant, uncompromising, where the sun really shines, the wind blows unhindered, the light is blinding, and one’s gaze can range ruthlessly everywhere, chasing distant horizons, magnificent lines, and unforgiving wastelands.”
Cartizze Hill.

Massi speaks English as well as Italian, and he provides transportation to and from airports, railway stations, bus stations, ports and moorings for cruise ships—basically anywhere one wants to go. Though he advertises himself as a driver, his customers know he is far more. He is familiar with stunning but little-known attractions in the region, including farms, factories, sagras, panoramic vistas and friendly and welcoming local characters. He will take photo enthusiasts out early in the morning or the late evening, when the light is best, and he knows all the most photogenic locations.
Chianti Shire.

I’ve stated before that the most memorable aspects of a trip to Italy are not just the sights but the people, and I’ve a feeling that Massi’s customers remember him fondly. If I were taking a trip to Southern Tuscany again, I think I’d just call Massi up and tell him to put together an agenda of his favorite cities. Take a look some of his many glowing reviews on Tripadvisor.
Castello di Brolio

Ashley F writes: “Massi built the tour around what we wanted to see and picked great locations that we would have never found on our own. We visited two wineries, had an espresso in a small town and enjoyed a huge cheese tasting of locally made pecorino. Massi was very knowledgeable about the region and taught us about wine production as we drove between stops.”
Grape vines in the fall.

John C. from Balmain, Australia, said: “Massi took us to four fantastic wineries, all of which were unique in their own way. We got a little out of hand and excited in how many bottles of wine we purchased, and Massi arranged for them to be sent home—he really went the extra mile! He was so friendly and informative and was obviously well respected by the winery operators.”
The famous Ponte Vecchio in Firenze.

Shane and Bev from Dartmouth, Canada, wrote: “We didn't have any set agenda and Massi was more than willing to help out but was also flexible to do whatever we wanted. He was professional, knowledgeable, and put us at ease immediately. He took us to a couple of great wineries and we got to see some views that we will never forget.”
Patterns in the sky.

Ciao Italy from San Antonio, Texas, wrote a rave review: “Massi is gifted at his profession. I say profession and not job because what he offers is far more than a driving service. He grew up in Tuscany, knows the winery profession first-hand, and appreciates/understands fine food/wine. He is always learning, networking, and improving his services. He takes trips to new locations in the off-season to build knowledge and contacts and expand his offerings.
Badia a Passignano.

“As for the driving portion, Italy is very particular on who may drive tourists, so his license as a driver is important. It allows him, for example, to drive through the pedestrian-packed streets of Siena and meet you in the historic walking zones. His skill as a driver is top-notch. He drove ambulances in the region in the past, so his knowledge of the area is excellent, and he is skilled at maneuvering and navigating his vehicle on the twisty narrow Tuscan roadways. His automobile was very comfortable, and the ride was always smooth and enjoyable. Massi understands the importance of details. He provided extras which made the trip more enjoyable, such as chilled drinking water in a cooler and delicious pastries from a local bakery.
Sundown at Cinque Terre.

“Massi was incredibly patient with customizing and planning the itinerary. Many of the Tuscan guides offer a take-it-or-leave-it tour. As a consequence, if you are hoping to visit a winery or site that isn’t part of the pre-conceived plan, you will miss the opportunity. Massi, however, was accommodating and flexible. If you don’t have a list of places you would like to go, he will schedule an amazing day for you. If you are like me, and tend to advance-plan and revise, Massi will work with you to craft an unforgettable trip.

“Massi has an impeccable sense of timing. I would invariably try to overschedule the day, hoping to fit in one more winery or site. Fortunately, he presciently and gently course corrected so that he made every appointment on time. Thanks to Massi, we never felt hurried, yet we managed to achieve all our important objectives.
Castello di Meleto.

“My only hesitation in recommending Massi is that if I tell you how great his services were, he might not be available for the next trip to Tuscany!”
Sunrise in Tuscany.
Pienza, Valdorcia.

Cinque Terre in November
Conegliano Valdobbiadene.