Joining Italian American groups on Facebook has been an
eye-opening experience. Until recently, I had not realized how sheltered I had
been to the full experience of Italian immigration in America and Australia.
This is mainly because my grandparents and their Italian relatives settled
primarily in a small town in Western Washington where they were the only
Italians. In addition, they were from Tuscany, while the majority of immigrants
to America were from Southern Italy. Though my grandparents did face many of
the same hurdles confronted by Italians growing up in larger cities in the east,
my grandparents' children did not grow up learning slang and dialectical distortions such
as muzzadel, gabagool, ree-goat, prushoot and goombah. They never heard of the
feast of seven fishes. In fact, my grandparents did not even know what pizza
was, as this specialty of Napoli did not become universally popular until long
after my nonni left Italy in the early 1900s (though nonna did bring
with her traditional recipes for biscotti, pasta
asciutta, fried zucchini and zuppa inglese).
What I also did not realize is how fiercely some people
react to the consideration of what it means to be Italian. We Italian Americans
cling to our family traditions as examples of what it means to be Italian, but
we often don’t consider that these traditions were imported well over 100 years
ago—and furthermore they came from the specific village where our grandparents
or great grandparents originated. It is not unusual to read passionate
arguments on Facebook complaining that one person’s traditions are “not
Italian” because they differ from another person’s traditions. For several
years now I have been considering writing something about these arguments, urging
tolerance for the traditions of others. And then I read an excellent essay by
my friend Gianni Pezzano, which I am reprinting below, that sums up many of the
points I wanted to make and saves me some time. Gianni grew up in Australia but
now lives in Italy. He writes about Italian culture for the magazine Daily
Cases.
Being Italian: What does this mean?
Gianni Pezzano |
Pasta alla carbonara |
And then many Italian Americans say some things that come from Italy are not Italian or are “yucky,” basically complaining when something from Italy does not conform to their model of “Italian.” And here they are wrong. Just as things changed in the USA, traditions in Italy change naturally and inevitably because of new influences as well. One example? Spaghetti alla carbonara dates back to World War 2 and the Allied occupation in Rome. An Italian chef invented the dish for a new way to use the powdered eggs (eggs were scarce in Italy at the time) and the abundant bacon the US troops had. This is now a “100% Italian” dish known around the world. And this is only one example. So why criticize these changes in Italy?
Trofie al pesto genovese |
There is a trend on both sides of the sea to mock or criticize people on the other side for things that do not conform with fixed models of being “Italian” that makes some discussion very unpleasant and often offensive. And in this regard, both sides are wrong. These useless discussions are harmful to everyone. Please consider before making certain replies. “Italian” means a lot of things and changes from person to person and country to country. If something is “Italian American” or from “Italo-Australian” culture, please say that to avoid confusion. We are all united by our Italian origins, and like all families, we are different. There is no “standard model,” because even in Italy the customs, traditions and cooking habits change drastically from town to town and family to family. Instead of arguing, we should use these discussions as opportunities to get to know each other.
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