A special day: A trip in the swamps of Fucecchio in a guided barchino

I’ve visited the Padule di Fucecchio on bike and on foot a number of times in the past six years, but today Lucy and I took our first boat ride through the canals. Thanks to the friendly members of the Association Volpoca, we were escorted in a small boat with a super quiet electric motor from the Casotto di Lillo on the west side to the Porto delle Morette on the east side and then back again.

Guido and Franco, our guides.

When we arrived for our gita in barchino, we were greeted by Patrizio, who welcomed us with caffè, fruit juice, biscotti and a friendly demeanor. He helped us into our small boat, which was piloted by Franco, a life-long resident of Ponte Buggianese. Another local resident, Guido, guided another boat with two Italian women. Along the way we heard and saw fish, rabbits and uncountable varieties and numbers of birds. The swamp, which comprises about 4,400 acres, is the largest inland wetland in Italy. It hosts as many as 200 species of birds, though many are only passing through on their migratory routes from Africa to Northern Europe, so not all species can be seen year-around.

Lucy looking out at Le Morette, the protected area.

We took two breaks to walk around and watch the birds from viewing platforms with a set of binoculars provided by the boatmen. Probably the most impressive site was the Garzaia, a cluster of trees that is home to up to 15 different species of birds, with hundreds of nests packed together in close proximity. Our guides said the birds make their nests in the same area for protection against predators. If the parents leave their nests to feed the young, there will always be someone nearby to chase away intruders. It’s the avian version of neighborhood watch.

The Garzaia in the Padule di Fucecchio.

The Garzaia is home to herons, night herons, little egrets, the rare squacco heron, the marsh harrier, numerous species of ducks, a family of storks and interesting migratory birds such as the black-winged stilt and the osprey. Our guides told us that when the birds all come back in the evening to roost, the site resembles a group of heavily decorated Christmas trees.

We learned that a large portion of the Padule is privately owned, by perhaps as many as 200 different people, but it also includes a publicly owned and protected area, Le Morette, that is closed to the public but can be seen from a raised viewing area. Homeowners and associations such as Valpoca have contributed money to dig canals though central areas of the Padule to make it easier to access by boat. While hunting is allowed in the privately owned areas, it should be noted that the hunters are the primary contributors to the care and maintenance of the swamp.

The entire trip took more than two hours, and at a cost of only 30 euros per person, it is a real bargain. The weather was absolutely perfect, sunny, around 74 degrees Fahrenheit and with a mild breeze. Afterwards we were provided with pizza, more biscotti and a variety of drinks, all included in the price. And they gave me a green cap to shade my eyes. And speaking of one’s optical organs, this kind of outing—in my eyes—tops any tour of museums, churches or even architecture that Italy can offer.